Specialist Arms Forum
Specialist Games General Discussion => Modeling & painting => Topic started by: azrael71 on May 04, 2009, 04:41:10 PM
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Please note I am only interested in opinions and experience of people who have dipped 10mm or smaller.
What products did you use?
Do you have any before & after pics?
Cheers
Mick
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I havent tried dipping yet, but the new GW washes work quite well for a TT standart unit.
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I have been using the new washes sice they were released to great effect.
As a consequence I am racing through my 3K of Orcs and Goblins.
I just stumbled upon a site with some BOFA and WM stuff that had been dipped and didn't look too shoddy, so I wondered if anyone had any actual experience of it?
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I have Army Painter Medium Wash ready to give the ratties a go .... I can do before and after pictures 8)
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I Use Army Painter dip for my 10mm WM and BOFA and with quite good result IMHO 8)
I use both light- strong- and dark tone dip for the various models.
Bofa trolls before and after dip
(http://www.voidgamers.com/images/data/photo/fantasy/warmaster/warmastergallery/TJ-Trolls_dippedAndUndipped_web.jpg)
Dipped BOFA giant
(http://www.voidgamers.com/images/data/photo/fantasy/warmaster/warmastergallery/TJ-Bofa_Giant_dipped_web.jpg)
Men-at-arms dipped before and after (note the very basic paintjob and what the dip does for the overall look of the figs)
(http://www.voidgamers.com/images/data/photo/fantasy/warmaster/warmastergallery/TJ-Maa_Dip_test_web.jpg)
regards
Thomas
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Thomas
do you actualy DIP them (Dip & Shake) or use a brush ??
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All - except for the Giant, are done by the "dip'n shake" method strip by strip before they are glued onto bases.
The Giant was too big and heavy for shaking, so that one was brushed with dip. Left to dry for a minute and then the excess dip was removed with an old brush.
regards
Thomas
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Cheers Thomas, yours were the models I had found.
I was going to try this method for my O&G's but found that glazes worked just as well.
I might reserve this method for my beasts of chaos army ;D
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wow great looking effect...has anyone dipped larger figs? like 40K scale?
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I have dipped a lot of 28mm stuff but no WH 40K
However I do think that the WH 40 i quite well suited for the dipping method.
Take a look at these 40K samples from The Army Painter website.
http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery.php?fFilter=true&dId=11>Id=0&cpoId=&qsoId= (http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery.php?fFilter=true&dId=11>Id=0&cpoId=&qsoId=)
regards
Thomas
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Hi,
I have never used this technique, what product do you use to dip?
tjantzen, your figures seems very effective, with minimun effort (I guess...)
Is it a very dirty technique to do indoors ( i mean, using this technique will assure you to stain for carpet or the wall of the living room ::))?
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Yes 8)
Effectiveness is what I am looking for - Good looking figs with a minimum of effort ;)
- As they say on their website "Paint less - Play more"....
I use The Army Painter products.
http://www.thearmypainter.com (http://www.thearmypainter.com)
As you also mentioned. The method is quite messy and requires access to an outside area if you are using the dipping method.
I am at the moment exerimenting more with the brush on method, that can be applied inside (in a well ventilated area)
Here are some video tutorials
brush-on:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYfhmfFgi9U (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYfhmfFgi9U)
dipping:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw1b56j_gSI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hw1b56j_gSI)
It is said that the same effect can be obtained by using different floor wax products (eg. "future floor wax" or "mini wax"), which are much cheaper than The Army Painter products. But I have not experimentede with any other as I am quite satisfied with the results of Army Painter
Heck! My lates project involve a warmaster Khorne deamon army - Base coated red, metal colors and spot colors are added and then they are dipped. And they look like a dream (nightmare!) :o
I'll post some pics soon.
regards
Thomas
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thanks,
very illustrative
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I have played with all three grades of Army Builder dip, as per the advert you need to think about the basecoat before selecting.
My technique is to paint it on quite thick, leave for 1 minute then brush off any massive excess. You need to give it a quite blow to clear any "bridging" between legs etc.
IMHO this is a great approach for painting Warmaster, the main thing is to have some balls and DO NOT highlight, but you do need to compensate by making your base colour "one step" brighter than normal.
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I have dipped a lot of 28mm stuff but no WH 40K
However I do think that the WH 40 i quite well suited for the dipping method.
Take a look at these 40K samples from The Army Painter website.
http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery.php?fFilter=true&dId=11>Id=0&cpoId=&qsoId= (http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery.php?fFilter=true&dId=11>Id=0&cpoId=&qsoId=)
regards
Thomas
I've dipped 28mm WHF models with home made dipping to this result:
http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2009/07/dipping-caos-marauders.html (http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2009/07/dipping-caos-marauders.html)
http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2009/08/dipping-chaos-warhounds.html (http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2009/08/dipping-chaos-warhounds.html)
http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2010/01/dipping-chaos-marauders.html (http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2010/01/dipping-chaos-marauders.html)
And also some 1/72 soft plastic greeks from Zvezda and Hät for WA:
http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2008/10/pics-of-172-plastics-for-warmaster.html (http://javieratwar.blogspot.com/2008/10/pics-of-172-plastics-for-warmaster.html)
A friend of mine dipped Warmaster skeletons with Army Painter and they came out quite well.
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I need to play around with Future/Pledge floor polish -- my impression is that it has less toxic solvents, and thus less of a need for ventilation or a respirator.
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I started using Future Floor Polish last fall. I mix 1 part Future, 4 parts water, and ink to make a wash. I have also used paint to supply the pigment, but the ink provides a smoother result.
I used the wash on my 40K Necrons. I "painted" them with a spray on chrome, and then washed them with a black wash to protect the chrome and define the areas. (In my first attempt, I destroyed 6 months of work when I did not cover the chrome before spraying on the sealer. Six months of work destroyed in 5 minutes. I was heartbroken for days.) I then added paint over the Future for details.
I started an experiment on some High Elf Swordmasters, because the High Elf scale mail drove me nuts when I painted it. The results are encouraging, but I used a wash based on paint rather than ink. I haven't created a new wash with ink yet.
It occurs to me that I used my purple Future wash on my daemons for my Daemon army. See the Warmaster Tale of Painters. See especially "The Watcher in the Sky". All the Daemon horde units were washed with a wash to bring put the details.
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I started using Future Floor Polish last fall. I mix 1 part Future, 4 parts water, and ink to make a wash. I have also used paint to supply the pigment, but the ink provides a smoother result.
I used the wash on my 40K Necrons. I "painted" them with a spray on chrome, and then washed them with a black wash to protect the chrome and define the areas. (In my first attempt, I destroyed 6 months of work when I did not cover the chrome before spraying on the sealer. Six months of work destroyed in 5 minutes. I was heartbroken for days.) I then added paint over the Future for details.
I started an experiment on some High Elf Swordmasters, because the High Elf scale mail drove me nuts when I painted it. The results are encouraging, but I used a wash based on paint rather than ink. I haven't created a new wash with ink yet.
It occurs to me that I used my purple Future wash on my daemons for my Daemon army. See the Warmaster Tale of Painters. See especially "The Watcher in the Sky". All the Daemon horde units were washed with a wash to bring put the details.
Very cool, thanks for the info. Have you tried Future using alcohol instead of water?
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I have not tried alcohol. I use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) to strip acrylic paint off second hand figures (praise Ebay). I didn't think it would be a good idea to put alcohol into the mix.
What is the alcohol supposed to do? I imagine a faster drying time, but I am not sure what else it would do.
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I have not tried alcohol. I use rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) to strip acrylic paint off second hand figures (praise Ebay). I didn't think it would be a good idea to put alcohol into the mix.
What is the alcohol supposed to do? I imagine a faster drying time, but I am not sure what else it would do.
Faster drying time, and -- presumably -- less surface tension, allowing the ink to flow more deeply into the recesses of the model.
I would guess that isopropyl is most effective at stripping paint when the models are soaked in it -- I'd be surprised if it had much of an effect if painted on.
The other thing I want to for this kind of wash/dip is artist's acrylic medium.
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Surface tension. I hadn't considered that. Maybe that's why the inks are better than the washes that I make with just water, Future, and paint.
I'm not sure, but my guess is that inks have alcohol in them.
Thanks for the idea!
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Surface tension. I hadn't considered that. Maybe that's why the inks are better than the washes that I make with just water, Future, and paint.
I'm not sure, but my guess is that inks have alcohol in them.
Thanks for the idea!
Future is supposed to help with surface tension as well, but I've seen 4x1(x1) alcohol-future-ink/paint mixes suggested.
It has also been noted that Future can be airbrushed on.