Specialist Arms Forum
Specialist Games General Discussion => Modeling & painting => Topic started by: Jo on April 22, 2012, 03:19:59 PM
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If you're in search of a fast way of painting units of Orcs then using the products from The Army Painter might be a good way to speed things up a bit. I only have a few hours per month at the most to get some painting done - but I like to play with good looking figures nonetheless. And that's the kind of gamer The Army Painter is making products for. More info on their products on their website: www.thearmypainter.com (http://www.thearmypainter.com).
The image below shows the 3 steps I use to paint my Orc units. As you can see there is quite some contrast in the finished stand with only a minimum of effort.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/20664663/WM/DSC_0449.jpg)
Step 1: Undercoat + drybrush:
I use the Greenskin coloured primer to undercoat the miniatures. I have the habit of glueing one strip to the stand and the other one on a piece of cardboard, three stands next to each other. After the paint has dried (which only takes a few minutes) I drybrush the stands with goblin green. This immediately provides an additional highlight to the skin and it helps in seeing where the details are for non-skin parts.
Step 2: Base colors:
Then I just apply the base colours as displayed in the picture. Just flat colors, nothing fancy. I also take quite bright colors since the quckwash will darken the miniature quite a lot. Here I used chainmail for the metal parts, bleached bone for clothes, snakebite leather for wood, skull white for teeth and smaller bits and charadon granite for the really dark areas.
Step 3: Quickwash & varnish:
The third step is where the magic happens. With a brush I apply the quickwash (strong tone for O&G) and let the figures dry for at least 24 hrs. After they have dried just spray a layer of matt varnish (I use The Army Painter varnish here is well) over the model and you're done painting.
Just finish the base and the stand is ready for the tabletop.
You can of course use this technique for other units as well, as shown in the pictures below (sorry for the not so sharp photographs).
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/20664663/WM/DSC_0447.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/20664663/WM/DSC_0445.jpg)
The chariots and board riders were base coated fur brown, the spider riders and the wolves were base coated bleached bone. The goblins were basecoated black but I painted Charadon Granite on them using an airbrush, only spraying top-down. The skin is only a single layer of goblin green, no other highlighting was used.
I hope this can help somebody on this forum to turn their mountain of lead into a real O&G army without too much fuss.
Cheers,
Jo
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Thats really simple and impressive! Looks like a great tool for 10mm, thanks for sharing!
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That is a really good new. Never seen a so good effect of quickwash in 10mm. I should give it a try!!
Thanks for sharing +1 :)
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As the proud owner of a very large painted Warmaster O+G myself, I salute you.
I've used an almost identical technique except I used Devlan Mud instead of army dip.
Your figures are looking good!
Dave
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As the proud owner of a very large painted Warmaster O+G myself, I salute you.
I've used an almost identical technique except I used Devlan Mud instead of army dip.
Your figures are looking good!
Dave
I am actually assuming, considering the size, that he used the quickshade as a brush on wash. That stuff is like devlan mud on steroids.
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I've used an almost identical technique except I used Devlan Mud instead of army dip.
I am thinking about using Devlan Mud instead of the quickwash myself. Can you compare the results of the two 'washes'?
Thanks for the input,
Jo
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One is a wash, the other is a thinned colored lacquer.
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Devlan mud is less dark and provides less contrast than army dip. I paint devlan Mud on with a brush as the last stage for most of my warmaster collection.
The only Warmaster army I had considered army dip for would be Khemri. Build, spray white, paint vivid primary colours for detail and then army dip and base. I would do a 'test pilot stand' though before doing the lot.
Dave
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Thanks for the input. I have a few figures prepared that only need a wash but I have spent too much time on them to simply dip them, I'm going to try with the regular washes. I guess I can still dip them afterwards or add additional layers of wash to get more contrast.
I just ordered Army Painter Ink Washes, which should have the same colour as the quickwash but are thinner. According to some web site they have the tint as devlan mud (strong shade) and badab black (dark shade). I really prefer these dropper bottles over GWs pots, especially for regular paints.
Jo
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Thanks for the input. I have a few figures prepared that only need a wash but I have spent too much time on them to simply dip them, I'm going to try with the regular washes. I guess I can still dip them afterwards or add additional layers of wash to get more contrast.
I just ordered Army Painter Ink Washes, which should have the same colour as the quickwash but are thinner. According to some web site they have the tint as devlan mud (strong shade) and badab black (dark shade). I really prefer these dropper bottles over GWs pots, especially for regular paints.
Jo
Let me know how those work out. I've heard that they make fantastic replacements.
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was wondering how you actually dip any help?
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Dunk the model in the can, literally. When you take it out shake off the extra stuff (very messy). I've seen a couple of videos where people stick the model on the end of a power drill and spin it to save their elbow from all the shaking.
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dip into what?
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A thin paint/lacquer/stain. The Army Painter stuff is thinner Minwax.
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right checked there site and i'm quite lost could i have a link or something?
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right checked there site and i'm quite lost could i have a link or something?
tutorial video (http://www.thearmypainter.com/videogallery.php?videoid=3)
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thx
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On the site you will notice two possible techniques for using the quickwash - dipping and the 'splash-on' technique which is basically using a brush to apply the wash. The dipping technique is good for 28mm models and your occasional giant but for warmaster I use the splash-on technique.
My order for their regular ink should be arriving any day now, I have a unit of Ogres and a unit of Trolls waiting for a regular wash attempt, I'll post some pics once they're done.
Good luck!
Jo
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Personally, I have always painted army dip on with a brush, rather than actually dipping it. It enables more control over where the dip goes (I typically avoid putting the dip on metal armour/weapons etc unless it's chaos/skaven etc i.e. rusty armour).
Dave
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The miniatures look really nice.
Is there any chance we could get some close ups?
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The video helps me a lot. I now I have no doubt I have to get some and make a test!
Thanks pal
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Right I read the pdf on there site and was wondering how you paint to get a tournament standard model? or even better?
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It all depends on the result you're after of course. I have never played any tournaments but for 10mm models - would the figures presented in the beginning of the post be sufficient for tournaments?
I think you already get good results if you highlight before applying the quickwash. That's what I did on my Orc Warboss in my first post here: http://sg.tacticalwargames.net/forum/index.php?topic=4405.msg32892#msg32892 (http://sg.tacticalwargames.net/forum/index.php?topic=4405.msg32892#msg32892).
It is also possible to add additional highlights after the quickwash if you would want to, something I did a few times in the past. It gives you the necessary depth and contrast in the recesses but brightens the otherwise darker look on the raised areas.
I also used their inks recently, which according to some site gives you the same effect as Devlan Mud (strong tone) or Bahdab Black (dark tone). I did notice however that the strong tone quickwash produces a more brownish effect than the ink, something I really like on my greenskins. I think you can see the quickwash as a somewhat thicker variant of the typical Devlan Mud wash that has a better effect on large surfaces but you have less control on the paint flow because of the viscosity and the longer drying time.
I hope this can help a bit?
Good luck,
Jo
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Right I read the pdf on there site and was wondering how you paint to get a tournament standard model? or even better?
In reaction to the reaction of Jo as well..... I dont realy think there is such a thing as "tournament standard"...... 8)
## RANT MODE ON ##
At the time that I stopped playing Warhammer Fantasy battle tournaments the whole concept of tournament standard armies became corrupted by the (few) "top class players" that had enough money and time to attend tournaments "all over the world" AND to have their mini´s *gasp* pro-painted...... allowing them to score more points for the events where the "painting/converting" of the army was part of the event (iow. at that time most GW events).
In itself there is no fault in gettin a top paintjob done on (a considerable part of) your force, but IMHO the proof should be in the puddin, and to often I have seen judges ignoring even photographic evidence that the work was bought.
If for any reason paiting is supposed to be part of what makes a tournament "tick" then there should be time allocated to paint as PART of the event..... ::) Oh wait ... there is the Golden Whatsummicall its you say?! Thru, and places like CMON do a great job in allowing people to show of their skills too.
For me, the aim to play an army at an event would be to have put up an effort to produce properly based, identifiable units on the table in ANY form of paintjob that exceeds "bare silver", "clean white (or grey) or "dusky black".
For me as an organizer of events (of which I have done some over the last 15 years), I would applaud those like Jo and Dave and all others that are showing of GREAT brushmanship in this forum, and try to make sure that there is some prize I CAN provide to the "best painted army".
## RANT MODE OFF ##
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Shhhoot. That's lookin' good.
I have to admit I never spared much thought for the army painter method, but on these 10mm orcs it looks great.
Might be time to break out that pot of Coat D'arms super shader. How do think it compares? (http://www.blackhat.co.uk/coat_darms/supershader.php)
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Might be time to break out that pot of Coat D'arms super shader. How do think it compares? (http://www.blackhat.co.uk/coat_darms/supershader.php)
I wouldn't know honestly. I did do a paint check last week to check the Quickwash against the Army Painter Dark Ink, which according to some sources should be almost identical to Devlan Mud. You can find a (not so good) picture below.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/20664663/WM/DSC_0035.jpg)
To the left you have the standard wash, on the right the quickwash. It is not so clear on the photograph but the quickwash produces a much warmer/brownish result than the regular wash. In the deep recesses the effect is about the same. The quickwash also darkens the miniature a bit but not quite as much as the regular wash.
So after these tests I am convinced that the remaining part of by O&G army (apart from the trolls) will be shaded using the Quickwash...
Let me know how it turns out.
Kind regards,
Jo
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10402995_10153369017253136_8307234372032634980_n.jpg?oh=0dc0bfb24237f539792af2df39abc66e&oe=54DC4473&__gda__=1427518476_c7bcdb29af218cd10b71adb13986f132)
I got inspired to use this method for my OnG-army so I am giving it a go! :) Used AP for a few Blood Bowl-teams with good results so this should work out nicely ^_^
9 units of orcs got primed with greenskin primer from AP and then a drybrush with Livery Green Game Colour from Vallejo. I am hoping for a bit of extra contrast with this.
Will go for Greys, Browns & metallics as basecolours. Not sure what I should use as the main colour for the army though...
Red is always nice but I am thinking maybe a nice blue?
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That is a great green tide!
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Will go for Greys, Browns & metallics as basecolours. Not sure what I should use as the main colour for the army though...
Red is always nice but I am thinking maybe a nice blue?
I used skeleton bone or dheneb stone as a base for quite some clothing etc as it is very neutral. Then I added small details of a different color on the different units using red, dark grey (charadon grey) and brown colors. These details are often limited to the shirt of the middle orc, banner color, helmet of important figures etc. This gives me a uniform green-brown look yet provides sufficient distinction between units so I don't remove the wrong stand.
If you want to use the army painter method then I would not go for the blue though. You want a brownish wash for the Orc skin. This looks great on brownish, greenish and reddish colors but will not be good on blue or white for example.
For my night goblins I used charadon grey as a base with a lighter drybrush to add more depth. There the squish details are painted in the same red as in some of the Orc forces. So anyhow you might want to pick colors that are compatible with red.
Jo
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Thank you Jo for further clarifications and tips :)
When I find time I will continue with basecolours and post a picture of the results...
Will be interesting to see if I can get details like teeth done in 10mm without it looking sloppy :/
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Will be interesting to see if I can get details like teeth done in 10mm without it looking sloppy :/
The trick is not to mainly paint the raised area of the teeth. The part where the teeth and the skin come together will be a place where the wash will build up. It is better to leave the lower part of the teeth green as it will give even more impression of depth. But if you paint part of the skin white then everyone will see.
Also thin down the paint somewhat. That allows for smoother painting and releases the paint better on the mini. Don't overdo it though as it will make the paint too thin and flow into the recesses.
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I missed these when they were originally posted, but man, those are some nice Orcs! I'm happy to see the before and afters you posted - it really helps with determining how well a product works. I've obviously seen the Quickshade done on 28mm, but was afraid that some detail might be lost with 10mm - glad to see that everything still looks good.
Any update photos showing more of the army?
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Just an update on how the teeth ended up for me :)
Thanks for this tutorial. Was great help for me painting my orcs!
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That is a great work! 8)