Specialist Arms Forum
Specialist Games General Discussion => Modeling & painting => Topic started by: andydorman on July 24, 2013, 04:07:00 PM
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Inspired by such threads as this one:
http://www.forum.specialist-arms.com/index.php?topic=5588.0
I've been starting to play with CAD, I'd really appreciate some advice on the packages people are using and how to actually get your design from the computer into reality. What companies offer 3d printing services at reasonable rate for small amounts. I'd be more than happy just to get masters printed and then cast the rest if that's how it's done even for small amounts.
At the moment I'm using FreeCad but there may well be better free packages out there. FreeCad is nice and easy to use, if a bit clunky. One thing I wish it could do is arrange objects, eg. links of a tank track, onto a user defined path - it'll do circles or 3d grids but not the curve of a tank track for example. I've taken a look at 3DS MAX but that scares the hell out of me right now!!!
Any advice or a general 101 would be gratefully received...
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Have you considered using Blender?
I think that's what most people use for learning a free program.
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Would Sketchup work?
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Blender's definitely worth a look and I've looked briefly at sketchup. Just a case of picking one and getting on YouTube...
What I'm most interested in is how you get your final graphic printed. Where you take it, how much I can expect to pay and any guidance about level of detail you can get away with.
I mean, do you just send it off to shapeways or something? There must be better options than that?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
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Speaking of 3D printing advice, I see that Shapeways frosted ultra fine will go to 0.1mm or so, but the material is brittle. Would it be suitable for using as a master to create moulds? How fine can casting methods go, will that 0.1mm detail be faithfully recreated? Do I need to use a specific casting process or material? (Would be professionally cast, mind you)
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So when your using shapeways to print in frosted ultra detail, you then need to use that model to be cast in lowtemp to make the masters for the production mold. Or you could talk to this gentlemen, http://www.ninjamagic.com/
And he prints in bronze, and you can make a master that can withstand hi temp production molds.
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That's the kind of information I was after! Thanks a lot.
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That's the kind of information I was after! Thanks a lot.
I've never worked with this guy before but i know of people that have. Keep in mind he may not get back to you right away, this is a side project he is doing, he works special effects in hollywood from what i understand. But he will get back to you.
Blind-
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I've also put the question up on the Troll Forged forums, Ed...the guy running the show is a master caster. He's very busy at the moment so I don't know how quickly he'll be able to reply, but his feedback is quite handy in this sort of thing since he does know the ins and outs of model production.
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I'd be happy with some free modelling advice at this stage...
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I'd be happy with some free modelling advice at this stage...
What kind of modeling advice are you looking for?
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I was thinking of advice as to "why this model won't print" or "won't print as well as it could". But more general advice would be useful too.
Basically, I'm feeling my way through blender and it's going pretty well. Tanks and stuff are fairly straight forward but organic shapes are a bit more problematic - nothing major, I'm just not totally sure what my final model should look like.
For example, if I'm building up some kind of xenos bug type creature, I'm guessing the final model that gets sent of for printing needs to look all smooth and nice, if that's the effect I'm going for. So do I just keep working until I'm happy and then whack a sub-surf modifier over all of the relevant parts? For example, I'm working on a curved carapace which is maintaining some of the angular feel of the underlying model. When I apply the sub surf modifier to the level where it looks good it can reduce the overall volume of the part. I think I'm missing something. Perhaps I should be adding pairs of edge loops near the corners so I have more control over the roundness of the corners without melting the model into shape? Maybe I just need to add more faces?
The more I play with it I think I'm getting closer I just get the feeling sometimes I'm not quite building up the model in the best way and without someone with more experience on hand I'm not sure I'm doing it right. I'm still learning how to think like a 3d modeller - I'm still having a lot of fun with it though!
I have a model I'm working on right now if you're interested? Maybe we could take it to email?
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I am no 2d modeller man i wish i could help i just don't have the skill set for that :( I'm pretty sure i understand what your saying though.
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No worries, I'm sure I'll figure it out - just looking for a few shortcuts!!
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By the way, do you have some pics of your work? Very curious to see what you want to build! :)
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Please don't take this to email, such advice is invaluable for all those who might wish to dabble in 3D!
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I've been making molds and casting resin for a year and a half now. In my experience, the molds I make get all the detail. The molds will pick up the wood grain on a piece of balsa wood, for example.
The Goblin Pump Wagons that I cast were made by Capt Piett. I disassembled the finished original into castable pieces and made a mold.
I've found that casting in resin using a pressure chamber gets all the detail of the mold and eliminates the air bubbles. The result is light and durable. When I have dropped a Pump Wagon, most of the time nothing happens. If it does break, it is at the joints where the super glue is holding the model together.
Like everyone else here, I am curious about what you are making. Can we see a screen shot or something?
I would be willing to make RTV molds of the printed pieces. I'm in the USA.
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This is what I'm working on - some kind of large land bug thing... Pretty much a practice piece at the moment while I figure out the software. I don't even know exactly how to export a graphic yet so I've just taken a screengrab.
I've got some tanks on the go as well but I'm happy that they'll come good once I put the time in. As I was saying, modelling these kind of organic shapes throws up a whole load of more issues. My hope is if I can model something like this fairly quickly and effectively it should improve my skills with more basic stuff...
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Love the look of it. =)
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That does look good!
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Thanks guys - the plan is to make it in 6mm scale, or something like it at least. I could probably do with a hand deciding how to cast it though.
At the moment I'm thinking spilt the body in half lengthways, with the tail left on one half and cast the head and two pairs of arms (still to be modelled) separately. I want to avoid casting the legs separately as well if I can help it. That would let me swap out arms if I wanted to.
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If you’re not into CAD software, you can use Sculpteo. I just recently tried this new app for 3D printing iPhone 5 cases. My material is a rubber-like TPE filament from 3D2print. I’m so glad with the result, the softness and flexibility of the material fits perfectly to my gadget and the software is very efficient. Other software like ZBrush, Google Sketchup, 3Dtin and OpenSCAD also allows a quick download, easy installation and faster way of creating your 3D design.
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Definitely eager to see updated space bugs - so it's great to see these things.
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Nice project. I wish you will produce an entire army :)