Specialist Arms Forum
Specialist Games General Discussion => Modeling & painting => Topic started by: Aldhick on November 11, 2014, 10:27:58 AM
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Hey guys,
I made this mini-tutorial for my gaming friends and just thought some of you might find this helpful as well.
The point is to encourage people to use wash technique which is imo most efficient way of painting 10 mm minis regarding time/outcome ratio.
There are four basic steps:
1 - white undercoat
2 - application of basic colors (as you can see no perfection is needed)
3 - wash - here I used black, as DE are supposed to look dark, but on most minis the dark brown is more convenient. At this point some people may consider it sufficient table top level - especially those not fond of painting.
4 - highlighting of the largest areas and edges.
And that's it :)
(http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w566/Annariell/PA252675_zps8338408b.jpg)
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Much appreciated :)
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That is a smart and nice tutorial!
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Do you use black 50% and 50% water?
Vallejo black, maybe?
I would give a try to this method. I will do it in some spare crossbowdarkelves that I inmediattly add to the end of my working pipeline.
Thanks for sharing Aldhick
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I use undiluted GW wash - Agharax earthshade mostly. Nuln oil in this particular case.
Vallejo washes hasn't earned my favor... they tend to leave continuous layer over the surface, which is what good wash should not do...
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When my current reserves of Badab Black and Devlan Mud are used up - I'm switching to the Army Painter washes. They're meant to be an almost perfect match for those (now retired) games workshop washes, and they come to a lower price!
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I can report very satisfying results with the army painter washes as well.
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Dito on the AP-washes. Excellent stuff!
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I like your idea, showing the painting on a single stand. Nice result as well.
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I use undiluted GW wash - Agharax earthshade mostly. Nuln oil in this particular case.
Vallejo washes hasn't earned my favor... they tend to leave continuous layer over the surface, which is what good wash should not do...
I have green and blue inks from GW, do you recomend follow your tutorial but with blue ink or will not work ( I am not familiar with the use of inks) ?
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@jchaos79
People use the brown ink/"Devlan Mud"/"Agrax Earthshade" etc. because it is easy to control and subtle and can go over bronze armour, flesh etc.
I would only suggest using bright colours like blue or green over certain areas, not the whole thing. I might use blue ink on my High Elves when I get round to them, but then only if they were in mithril/white/blue colours as a base.
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Nice tutorial, that's almost as I paint 10mm figures. I use agrax earthshade wash on most miniatures since it's a kind of neutral shade working expecially well with browms, yellows and metals. Anyway i liked most devland mud since agrax shade is a bit too dark for my taste.
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I use undiluted GW wash - Agharax earthshade mostly. Nuln oil in this particular case.
Vallejo washes hasn't earned my favor... they tend to leave continuous layer over the surface, which is what good wash should not do...
I have green and blue inks from GW, do you recomend follow your tutorial but with blue ink or will not work ( I am not familiar with the use of inks) ?
inks require quite a bit of watering down to work as a wash, I'd recommend using airbrush thinner if you can get hold of it as it doesn't mess with the surface tension of the ink and you won't end up with tide marks like you can do with water
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I have green and blue inks from GW, do you recomend follow your tutorial but with blue ink or will not work ( I am not familiar with the use of inks) ?
Well I'd personally use other color inks other than black or brown only for specific minis such as daemons where I aim for "unnatural" look or in areas, as Stormwind said. For example I used green ink for 28mm orcs only on their flesh and it look nice. But I cannot imagine doing this on 10mm minis :-)
Anyway i liked most devland mud since agrax shade is a bit too dark for my taste.
Cannot agree more. The thing is the Devlan mud is OOP now. Unfortunately Agrax earthshade came to replace it.
inks require quite a bit of watering down to work as a wash, I'd recommend using airbrush thinner if you can get hold of it as it doesn't mess with the surface tension of the ink and you won't end up with tide marks like you can do with water
GW inks I use definately don't need any watering before application. Vallejo do need some and that's why I thing their inks suck :-) However for normal painting I use Vallejo only.
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I'm talking about proper *inks* though, not stuff like devlan mud which have loads of flow improver added
inks like P3 and the old GW inks (plasma red for example) have loads of pigment, you can almost paint with them, definitely need diluting to use as a shading wash
washes like devlan mud etc, have more carrier and flow improver, less strong on the pigment, but plenty of people still refer to them as inks from the old days of doing an 'ink wash' :)