New member intro

[thecoldwarrior]

Hello

I am a wargamer. I have one regular opponent and we play mostly WHFB. I did get the BOFA box long ago and played it a bit. Seems to me WM is basically the same rules (read them via PDF on the GW site). I love the system and who can resist the mini...minis?! The WM armies are simply amazing. Such detail on such a small scale. Currently I am not looking to buy even more minis but I would like to, slowly, build up a couple of WM armies.

BASES-The thing that brought me to register (beyond a community devoted to 10mm) is bases. To me the bases themselves are not a difficult thing. Sure you normally get the bases needed for the troops. If for some reason you dont have bases or need more I simply cut them out of sheet styrene (1mm thick). Easy as pie and cheaper than anything. While looking at some posts I saw someone adding magnetic sheet (mag paper) to the bottoms of their bases. I found this odd since the bases (and the supports under the minis) make everything so tall. Why would you ADD to the height? Personally I think its worth cutting the mag paper into base size (20x40mm) and gluing the minis directly to this. It seems clearly obvious but I have yet to see this done. I tried one for kicks and looks to work just fine. Is there something Im missing?

Granted there may be some issues when it comes to metal (I tried out plastic BOFA) but I can imagine there is enough weight to really matter. Also the mag paper is available in sheets and rolls. The roll is not flat so Id recommend the sheets. If you are not looking to magnetize your minis then this is a non issue. For those that are it would make for a perfect storage/transportation solution. I personally do not need to travel with the minis often but I would consider doing this just so it is already done and ready to go.

TERRAIN-My absolute favorite aspect of miniature wargaming is the terrain (scenery). I build a LOT of it! For example I have made Helms Deep 4 times (4ft, 3ft, 2ft and a 1ft version for use in BOFA). When it comes to basing terrain pieces (the best way to go IMO) I use 1/8in MDF. This is just about perfect for 28mm due to easy working, cost, lightweight, sound material for scale. When it came to working with 10mm scenery I found this was too thick. Sure it will~ work but it seems odd to me since it nearly represents a hill in its own height. I tried the 1mm-1.5mm styrene and it works but seems a waste of good material/use (you will find Im very errr um, cheap...I mean frugal). My alternative may sound a bit weak but actually it works very well. I use cereal boxes. Yes there can be some warping issues but there is an easy way around that. Here is my technique....

-trim the card ends from the box to create sheets of working material
-spread white tacky glue (not thinned or only slightly thinned, more water means more warping) over the printed surface of one sheet
-quickly add the another sheet to this wet glue printed side face up
-press down for good bond and to remove any air pockets
- immediately place the bonded sheets in a press (heavy books, sand in a tote, etc) it is better to have a caul (something to create even pressure when clamping glued joints) simply put a sheet of wood that the weight is then added to rather than having only the weight unevenly distributing pressure, this also prevent glue seepage from getting on that 1st edition hawthorn (ya nerds)
-let dry...no really...let it dry...'come back tomorrow' dry
-mark out your base size
- cut over a mat with a slight bevel towards the inside area creating a smoother lip
-ready for finishing! go easy on the glue when adding sand, the glossy printed top will give you some leeway but remember you are trying to prevent warping, if you have real issues, paint the top side, dry, press again (adding another layer of protection against warping)

Anyway Im ready to share my tips and techniques. Some of you sculptors need to give some more details and tuts cuz thats some amazing work! Here is a ling to what should be most of my 10mm stuff (though Im sure there are many still on my main album)...

http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y138/usagidoug/10mm/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ32

[Bel]

awesome work.

[David Wasilewski]

You are an excellent modeller!

I fancy having a bash at making those rivers - it's the one bit of terrain I still haven't really got for Warmaster.
I am reasonably confident using the sand/paint/varnish side of things. What I am less sure about is what to use as a thin base for the river without it warping.

Have you had the river finished for some time now, has there been any warping? If there hasn't how did you achieve this and what base material did you use?

Dave

[thecoldwarrior]

Thank you.

-David Wasilewski, I use cardboard cereal boxes. It is two layers thick, one glued to another. This is pressed between plates of wood with some weight added to it to prevent warping.

 Here is my technique....

-trim the card ends from the box to create sheets of working material
-spread white tacky glue (not thinned or only slightly thinned, more water means more warping) over the printed surface of one sheet
-quickly add the another sheet to this wet glue printed side face up
-press down for good bond and to remove any air pockets
- immediately place the bonded sheets in a press (heavy books, sand in a tote, etc) it is better to have a caul (something to create even pressure when clamping glued joints) simply put a sheet of wood that the weight is then added to rather than having only the weight unevenly distributing pressure, this also prevent glue seepage from getting on that 1st edition hawthorn (ya nerds)
-let dry...no really...let it dry...'come back tomorrow' dry
-mark out your base size
- cut over a mat with a slight bevel towards the inside area creating a smoother lip
-ready for finishing! go easy on the glue when adding sand, the glossy printed top will give you some leeway but remember you are trying to prevent warping, if you have real issues, paint the top side, dry, press again (adding another layer of protection against warping)

As for the river sections. There can be some warping after the fact but I simply over bend it in the opposite direction to get the kink out. I have not had any major issues with this so far but I also tend to add enough foam or other material to the card to stabilize it. If you look closely, one river section has some wires embedded in the sandbars. This did not work and looked ugly.

[Lex]

Great work on Helms Deep.

I love the pinecone woods, now I regret NOT looking at the post before I did a walk through the woods last sunday 

On the needlesprig trees, do you seal those ? And I would suggest you attach them to washers for stablity on the table.

On foam, it is hard to see, but it seems you are mostly using plain white (grained) polysytrene ? and not the easier workable blue or pink one ??

Picture 77, liquid green stuff ??   Did you make moulds, if so, what material did you use for the negatives ?

Nice woodwork too !!  setting up for the pits of Saruman ??

[Geep]

Good looking terrain thecoldwarrior.

Where do you live, for those who may be looking to play games against you?

[BlackEd]

Awesome work!  Helm's Deep is awesome!  How did you get the cuts of the styrofoam so clean?

I would love to see more!  I will try out your suggestion for rivers -- I actually do have a book press.

Where are you located?  I assume some where in the US (or at least hope so).

[jchaos79]

Yep this is astonish! wow

[Dave]

The terrain looks awesome.

On the mag sheeting for bases, I'd worry that attacking the figures directly to the mag sheet would be too flimsy. The stuff I put on my high elf bases is about .75mm thick, it's not very noticeable to me when I line them up against un-magged bases.

[Carrington]

Why would you ADD to the height? Personally I think its worth cutting the mag paper into base size (20x40mm) and gluing the minis directly to this. It seems clearly obvious but I have yet to see this done. I tried one for kicks and looks to work just fine. Is there something Im missing?

I've used thin steel bases (Wargames Accessories), but prefer the 3mm high Litko bases.  I tend to like the idea of bases as self-sufficient dioramas (yes, it looks a little strange to have terrain carted around on the board, but so be it).  More importantly, I like the fact that a 3mm base is much easier to pick up by the base, without having to pick up the base by the figures.

[thecoldwarrior]

lex- I dont remember sealing any of the trees. I have all sorts of foam. Some times I use the lesser grade white stuff since I get it free in med packing at work. Its not as nice but its great for mock ups and if Im going to coat it then the type hardly matters in the end. Pic 77 was made years ago so long before liquid green stuff. Its reg green stuff though over styrene sheet. No moulds of it, mostly a trial.

Geep- I live in Iowa USA. Take the first left into the wilderness and drive about 100 miles away from civilization then keep going for another 2 days. Ok its not that bad but deff not a gaming mecca.

Black ed- A very sharp knife. I use several sharpening systems and often to re-align the teeth to keep a blade sharp.

Dave- The stuff I used it solid. I should have mentioned that the mag sheet i have is the same thickness as the GW bases for WM (though I have seen the thinner stuff Ive not used it). I really do not need mag but it was worth looking into because it can only help.

Carrington- I see what you mean. The hero bases sure are like mini dioramas. Never even thought about picking the minis up. Id say i use the minis 90% of the time. 

[Happymcclap]

Some really nice stuff on there, i too particularly like your Pine Cone trees, great and (cheap) idea.

[Brutalrage]

great great work in there mate, im rlly impressed!!

[Stormwind]

I absolutely love your styrofoam buildings - is very inspiring to me!